The potential is evident in Sanlúcar. In the winding streets of the old part of town, baking under the intense Andalucían sun on a sleepy Sunday, old men congregated at the bar at Taberna Guerrita to watch soccer on television, eating ham or potato-and-egg tortilla and drinking beer or house-made manzanilla, a more delicate fino made only in Sanlúcar. A car drove by slowly, seeking that most coveted of perks, a parking spot in the shade. On a nearby church steeple, a stork fed its chicks on a huge unruly nest, a timeless tableau.
Alongside the tavern was a small modern wine shop and laboratory-like tasting room opened by Armando Guerra, the tavern proprietor’s son. A surprising juxtaposition of old and new, it offered one of the best selections of sherry in Spain, along with the complete Equipo Navazos line.